Buttonwood Bonsai Care
Buttonwood bonsai care includes lots of sun and water. Tropical hobbyists grow their Conocarpus in as much sun as each yard allows. Vigorous growth begins in spring and continues through mid-summer. This plant likes water, however, when planted in a heavy soil, fungus and/or root rot can become a problem. Fast draining soil is always best.
Safeguard your tropical bonsai from frost. If you have small ones, bring them indoors when cold nights even threaten. Otherwise, place them under cover for protection. Even a cool night of 50oF temperatures can cause a buttonwood to wilt.
Photo by B. Hulnick
Tropical Dormancy?
During the winter months Conocarpus erectus has a natural “dormancy” period. As with many tropicals, this dormancy is not necessarily one with fallen leaves. However, the leaves usually become unattractive during this interval. This is not the time to try to make it look better. While the tree is resting, additional branches are forming. These buds will explode into the new growth of spring. This new growth causes old leaves to drop; it is a natural process. Another ‘slow down’ period for your buttonwood is in the heat of summer. Again, it may not look 100%, but don’t encourage buttonwood bonsai care to make it better, let it rest.

When this buttonwood by Luis Rayon showed up at the 2002 exhibit in Miami, everyone was in awe! It is not a Phoenix graft.
Leaf Reduction
In the tropics Conocarpus can be defoliated two or three times a year with no problem. In other climates, there have been reports of dieback from complete defoliation.
Over time, full sun, root restriction and regular pruning will also reduce leaf size. Lots of twigging encourages smaller leaves without defoliation, so prune frequently.
Root Pruning and Repotting
I consider root pruning and timing the most important part of buttonwood bonsai care notes. Conocarpus roots are brittle at the point they connect to the trunk - and break away easily. It is not unusual for a collected specimen to have very few primary roots (sometimes one!). Nevertheless, there is often lots of root ramification. This can be a deceiving situation. Never ‘comb out’ buttonwood roots! I like to lightly hose off the old soil first ... to determine what’s really going on. Timing is very important. The best time to repot and/or root prune this plant is during the season of warmest nights. But, don’t wait too long. Allow the tree recovery time. For example, in South Florida it is better to root prune this tree during May, June or July, not late August. The tree then has time to re-establish new roots before an early (although improbable) cool spell. In more tropical climates (e.g. the Caribbean) timing the root pruning is not such a problem. Outside of those tropical regions, timing is a serious consideration.
Pests and Diseases
As with any driftwood,
watch for borers
and termites. “Sawdust” may be the first sign.Old trees frequently have heavily textured bark … good hiding places for damaging bugs. A wire brush is ideal for both the dead wood and bark. At first, it may seem you are removing too much bark, probably not. You may be pleasantly surprised at the new color and texture exposed from the brushing.
Two pests which can be more annoying than harmful are the leaf-cutting bee and the citrus root weevil. (I call the citrus root weevils “greenies”.) Damage from both of these critters appears in the form of chewed leaves. Moving your bonsai may be all that's needed to discourage the bee.
The buttonwood shown above (with clusters of seed), is growing in the rocks along Biscayne Bay.
Removing the difficult-to-see, pastel green beetle by hand will best take care of him. Neither of these pests arrives en masse. If you have mites, aphids or mealy bugs, the tree most likely needs more sun and/or better air circulation. The leaves are particularly sensitive to chemicals … never use Malathion on this plant. If necessary, consider using a spray with a pyrethrin or a soap based product. (Even then test spray one area first.)
Driftwood
The natural jin and shari of these trees are very desirable for bonsai.
Conocarpus wood is very hard (at one time used for buttons). The features can be enhanced by hand carving or even be created with power tools. It is difficult to replicate the inherent beauty of driftwood, but it can be done. Practice on a throw-away piece of wood first.
Dead Wood Maintenance
Dead wood on any bonsai requires maintenance. Buttonwood bonsai care is no exception. To prevent rot, brush it, keep it clean and treat with lime sulfur. (When possible, use lime sulfur outdoors; the smell resembles rotten eggs.) Lime sulfur is available from most bonsai dealers. To see instructions for applying go to
the National Arboretum page on applying lime sulfur.
Indoors
Buttonwood
bonsai care indoors
can be a little tricky. When grown in low light (not its favorite location) buttonwood is highly susceptible to scale insects, mealybugs, mites, etiolation (lengthening of space on stems between leaves) and large leaves. Rather than fight these problems continually, move the tree into high artificial light. Metal halide lights may be the most successful light for indoor buttonwood bonsai care. Water with warmish water. Straight from the tap in winter, water may be too cold. Another helpful tip for other than tropical environments is: use a propagation mat to keep the buttonwood’s feet warm.
Your Buttonwood Bonsai
You are invited to share your buttonwood bonsai story and photos on my site. It's easy to do. Create your own page in
The Buttonwood Photos
section. While you're there, be sure to comment on and rank photos of other buttonwoods.
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