Jade Bonsai

Portulacaria afra is much easier to develop as a good bonsai than the common Jade Bonsai plant, Crassula argentea. Synonyms: C. oblique and C. arborea. (Both are referred to by the common name of jade.)



Portulacaria afra has shorter internodes and much smaller leaves.

The leaves are very close together, obovate, opposite and just under 1/2 ’’ long -- when grown in the sun.

To keep a good bonsai shape, frequent pruning (and/or pinching) is necessary.

In the summer it is not unusual to ‘pinch’ or prune twice a week to maintain a well-styled tree.

They may be difficult to recognize as bonsai subjects, but take a second look. Scrutinize the trunk.

Water storing plants such as Portulacaria use their fleshy leaves and branches as reservoirs.

They can survive in relatively small amounts of soil and like to dry out between waterings.

During the rainy season in Florida, I occasionally move my ‘tiny leaf jades’ under the eaves of the house and hand water them as needed. They certainly don't need the daily rains, especially when recently potted.

Watering (or not) is the trickiest part of growing this plant.

For those who often forget to water, jade bonsai may be the ideal candidate!

Root Pruning and Repotting

Jim says one of the most important things to remember when repotting, trimming roots or transplanting is:

“Allow the soil to become dry before repotting and DO NOT WATER the plant immediately after potting.”

“The existing leaves may even shrivel before new leaves appear. This is not a problem. If some of the old leaves drop, they will quickly be replaced.”

Portulacaria is a heavy feeder. Use a balanced formula (e.g. 20-20-20), full strength weekly during the growing season and monthly during its slow time. If you don’t have time or are likely to forget - use a time release fertilizer.

Whichever soil you use, it should be very fast draining and then adapt your watering accordingly.

Jade Bonsai Notes

• In arid areas there are few problems with P. afra, the climate is perfect. In more humid and rainy zones, sheltered areas and indoors may be better environments – also, some pests are more likely.

• Never use petroleum based chemicals on succulents. They can cause major leaf loss (although they sometimes return). Unless you have a serious pest problem, use sudsy detergent water or even a garden hose may spray away minor problems.

• Fungus is a jade bonsai problem often caused by overwatering. Soft or soggy branches and trunks are a sign of too much water. If this happens, it may be too late and drastic measures are called for. Allow the plant to totally dry out and sit dry for a couple of weeks or more. Even this may not stop the rot. Consider removing all the old soil and change to a coarser, dry mix.

• Portulacaria can be difficult to stabilize as bonsai, especially in shallow containers. Even though they can grow in very little soil, their weight may cause them to fall over. Tie the plant in, prop it with rock or even secure the plant to a temporary rock to keep it stable (until the fine roots become totally established).

• Jade bonsai plants are tropical and must be protected from frosts and freezes. It is considered by many, as one of the best indoor bonsai trees.

• Never try to create jin or shari on a p. afra. Any attempt at carving will cause damage that will result in at least the loss of a branch.
  
  Even worse, deadly rot may set in and likely kill the plant.

  The segmented plant structure of the trunk and branches deserves some thought before pruning.

  Make flat cuts only.

  Leave concave cutters or spherical knob cutters in your tool box! As an added precaution, leave a small stub just above the segment you want to keep. Never use cut paste.

• P. afra propagates easily from cuttings, even large ones. Let the cutting sit a couple of days in the shade to ‘harden off’ before planting in a fast draining, dry soil mix. No rooting hormone is necessary.

  Even a leaf that falls on the soil while pruning, may root without any encouragement. It takes many years to have a good bonsai from a leaf, but it could be done!

• Despite earlier writings on the subject, the fleshy branches of some succulents can be successfully wired.

  Although a succulent, it has a woody inner tissue. It may seem like the wire is scaring the tree before it holds. However, once the wire is removed, the branch will bulge back without disfigurement.

  The bark of this African native is more like ‘skin’ and can be damaged when wiring. Be cautious.

Styles for Jade

If the long water-filled branches are allowed to grow naturally, their weight causes them to droop. Sometimes natural cascades are formed from the lower limbs. Look closely at your subject before determining it must be an upright.

With frequent pruning, the small leaves readily form desirable pads.

The roots readily establish in small pockets of soil and the exposed roots thicken and age surprising well. (Plant must be tightly secured on the rock to get it started.)

All styles should be considered for jade bonsai. Drastic pruning - if necessary to create a great shape - is not a problem. Just watch those segments.

Cork Bark Portulacria ?

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